Marseille done the right way: the best things to do, spots to eat, and places to stay in this dazzling city in the south of France.

Every summer as a child, my family and I hopped on a train from Paris and headed south to spend a few weeks in my mom’s hometown, an hour from Marseille. I remember staring out the window during the four-hour journey, watching the scenery go by at 200 kilometers an hour, and seeing the land get progressively drier and the sky progressively more blue. I instantly knew I was in the South of France when I stepped off the train and was welcomed by the loud and insistent buzzing of cicadas and hit by a wave of humidity and salty air filling my nostrils.

Eventually, I stopped going on holiday to my grandmother’s house. Instead, I would head straight to Marseille o

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