Our picks for the top things to do in Madrid, plus the must-try restaurants, best hotels at any budget, and a few things you should definitely avoid.

I studied abroad in Spain over a decade ago, and (like a lot of people who’ve spent time in Madrid) I fell hard for it. Coming from the U.K., the city’s perpetual sunshine definitely has its appeal. But Madrid won me over even more so with its endless tapas crawls and the way the city makes space for an impressive amount of both chaos and calm. Long, slow lunches followed by nights that don’t really get going until 11p.m.? Sign me up.

Since then, I’ve made it a point to come back over and over, every single year. I’ve still got friends who live here, so I get the local side of the city, too: the parks where people actually hang out, the nei

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