Marc Levy

Price: $10

You can already sense winter coming, and soon the agreeable burn of dishes such as Prik Nam Pla’s veggie dumplings will be essential. These halved squares of rice noodle and generous chops of chive are boiled, fried to a congeelike consistency and served hot with a dipping sauce that cools and suffuses them in a tangy sweetness – a perfectly sugared chili carried by light, nonsour vinegar. It’s all a bit magical as the crisped dumplings retain their heat even if you stop to savor each bit, transmitting two kinds of wholly pleasant warmth inside you with the lingering effect of any good comfort food. The sauce, meanwhile (at a restaurant named after a Thai sauce, though not this one), inspires experimentation: A delicate corner dip? Thorough soaking of the chunk? Go

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