Judging simply by the wishing tree that looms over the main dining room, Kyuramen has welcomed literally thousands of guests since opening in early June. The wooden structure is in full bloom, dripping with hand-written notes bearing the hopes, dreams and prayers of previous diners.

But attention soon shifts to the left side of the restaurant, where booths are stacked in a striking honeycomb pattern, each glowing like the sunlit cells of a bee frame. Straight ahead, an open kitchen is a beehive of activity, where chefs drop noodles into boiling water, ladle hot broth from bubbling cauldrons, and cap bowls with various toppings. Moving deeper into the restaurant, one finds a stretch of cozy nooks concealed by curtains that mimics the lantern-lit alleyways of old Tokyo.

Belying its suburba

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