By Jules Polonetsky

In the hierarchy of wine-world respectability, Moscato often sits somewhere between “guilty pleasure” and “entry-level curiosity.” To many sommeliers, it’s too sweet, too simple, too unserious. Yet there’s one Moscato that’s done what very few wines — kosher or otherwise — ever manage: become a runaway hit in markets far beyond the niche it was designed to serve. I’m talking, of course, about Bartenura Moscato, the bright blue-bottled sensation from Royal Wine Corporation.

Bartenura was originally one of a few Italian imports in Royal Wine’s portfolio: a line of wines named after the 15th-century commentator on the Mishnah, Rabbi Ovadia ben Avraham of Bertinoro, known as “The Bartenura” to scholars. The Moscato d’Asti was part of the lineup, a light, sweet, lightly sp

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