Adam Lippes has his sights set on Japan. “We are continuing on in a Japan exploration. A lot of what was stiff last season, you’re going to see now is very, very soft,” he said at a preview. He’s recently opened a website there and already has his first order, a simple red tennis dress.

Spring softness takes a more reflective approach. Sarouel trousers — one of spring ’s clear trends — now appeared in silk jacquard and sheer chiffon; trenchcoats were done in draped silk, while dresses, once constructed from sturdy wovens, have been reimagined in jersey. Tailoring remains precise and stunning. Peplums, detachable and filled with horse hair to add shape, were seen throughout. One on a skirt was paired with a simple luxe tank.

Outerwear took on the same ease. “Things you wear when you sit

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