When it comes to food, I'm not a line-waiter . Sorry to whatever viral matcha concoction, buzzy birria taco or Dubai chocolate Franken-doughnut might await me at the end of that hours-long queue, but I just ain’t waiting to eat. I will, however, for food, especially when it comes to food—hidden-gem cold noodles in South Korea, a perfect simmering tagine in Morocco, swoon-worthy ceviche in Peru, and the like. So when a colleague asked if I would fly in her stead to Toronto for a lightning-fast 24-hour sojourn to try one of the city’s best restaurants, I definitely wasn’t saying no.

That’s how I found myself zooming from LaGuardia to Toronto Pearson—an easy, breezy 90-minute flight, long enough for three episodes of and two Biscoff cookies—on the Friday afternoon of Labor Day We

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