At Tod’s, creative director Matteo Tamburini was thinking of those “bittersweet end-of-summer moments,” even more appropriate on Friday afternoon given the gloomy rainy day in Milan.

The designer was inspired by the book “An Italian Summer” by Claude Nori and on his mood board were photos of Felice Casorati works — a delicate fruit still life, for example — and of Kate Moss and Emma Balfour, seen as “representing the new ideal of beauty in the ‘80s.” This contributed to Tamburini’s idea of natural ease and “clothes that take shape around the body, in an essential lightness.”

Entering Milan’s PAC, the museum of contemporary art where Tod’s has regularly held its shows, the brand’s white lab-coat-wearing artisans were seen at work with their tools. The punctures that become Tod’s signature

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