Before the Lululemon faithful underwent baptism by bone broth, Shigetoshi “Naka” Nakamura was one of Japan’s four “Ramen Gods.” Beginning his Stateside tenure as the ramen rabbi behind Sun Noodle’s Ramen Lab (a proving ground for ramen creativity), Nakamura now channels his power through a tiny storefront at the Manhattan-side foot of the Williamsburg Bridge. The question is, can Nakamura convert believers?

In case you forgot where you are, Nakamura’s name lords above the tiny room in old-school bulb signage. It’s table service, which is surprising considering the space’s setup, but the whole place is only about 18 seats, including a narrow bar against the wall, so nobody will wait long for anything. It’s spotless, quaint, functional–everything you need, nothing you don’t.

The tontoro bo

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