With its rollicking scenes of men in lederhosen and women in dirndls downing pitcher-size steins of beer, Oktoberfest is how much of the world pictures Germany. In Munich, where Oktoberfest has been held most years since 1810, it’s also how residents see themselves.

"There is no Munich without Oktoberfest, and no Oktoberfest without Munich," said Nina Munz, whose firm, Angermaier, sells festival garb in outlets as far away as Berlin.

Over 2½ weeks starting Saturday, some 7 million people will visit the city’s fairgrounds, called the Theresienwiese. A clear majority will come from Munich or the surrounding region. While Oktoberfest is indeed a major international tourist attraction, 40% of visitors come from Munich proper, says Benedikt Brandmeier, the city tourist official who serves as

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