L.A.’s Food Scene Is in Crisis. Here’s Why.

Curtis Stone’s neo-steak house Gwen, Ricardo Zarate’s Peruvian spot Rosaline, Michael Mina’s global flavors concept Mother Tongue: These are just some of L.A.’s high-profile restaurant closures in recent months. Historic landmark Cole’s — the purported inventor of the French dip sandwich — which first opened in 1908 in downtown L.A., likewise announced its own end.

In this century’s first two decades, the city had become America’s most relevant and talked-about dining capital — fueled by affordable commercial rents, innovative talent and its access to choice ingredients from local purveyors. Post-pandemic, it’s suffering from an unending gastro-crisis.

Curtis Stone’s neo-steak house Gwen, Ricardo Zarate’s Peruvian spot Rosaline, Michael Mina’s global flavors concept Mother Tongue: Th