“I don’t really do delicate that much, and I thought, ‘I’m gonna try that,'” Rick Owens deadpanned before his open-air spring show on Thursday in Paris.

The delicate cycle at Owenscorp means wading fully clothed into the reflecting pool in the parvis behind the Palais de Tokyo, this season in platform boots and the American designer’s subversive way of doing sheer, hems dragging through the ankle-deep water.

“I kept piling them up,” he said of the transparent fabrics. “It’s actually very suppressed, the nudity.”

Naturally, Owens’ take on lingerie dressing — one of the biggest trends this European season — looks like nobody else’s. Think delicate chiffon capes suspended from his signature anvil shoulders — this time cast in metal — or architecturally seamed stocking tops and dresses.

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