Among the slew of designer debuts in Paris this season, Glenn Martens’ coed ready-to-wear collection for Maison Margiela was technically not a first, since he already set out his vision for the brand with his Artisanal show in July.

That haute couture collection, which tilted the Paris house in a dark, daring and DIY direction, has been snapped up by celebrities like Cate Blanchett and Lisa Manobal.

“It feels a bit less heavy, of course,” he said of this outing. “I kind of proved myself already a bit in July — but sadly, the internet and the press doesn’t care,” Martens added with a laugh.

The million-dollar question, of course, was whether he would follow in the footsteps of his predecessor John Galliano and keep pushing the conceptual envelop with his ready-to-wear, or steer the brand

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