Elie Saab ’s spring collection marks an evolution in the Lebanese designer’s aesthetic, as well as strategic direction.

Saab, best known for his opulent evening and red carpet wear, switched gears for spring 2026 to a focus on sexy, sporty separates in a collection that hit all the ‘80s notes anyone could want. See high-waisted pencil skirts, power shoulder blazers, polka-dotted tights, python trench coats, and Prince of Wales checks. It all came down the runway fast and furious to a pulsating beat.

There was nary a mother-of-the-bride suit to be seen.

Carine Roitfeld has been styling Saab’s shows since last year, beginning with his 300-plus look Saudi Arabian anniversary extravaganza in November. You could feel her influence here, with a silhouette practically lifted straight from the

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