“How would a Chloé girl wear a couture dress today?” Chemena Kamali, the house’s creative director, said just before the show, answering her own question. “She would wear it in cotton, and she would wear it without the lining.”

Since arriving at the creative helm of the Paris house two years ago, Kamali has set about reaffirming Chloé’s sunny nonchalance, natural femininity and youthful elan, leaning into the archive and particularly Karl Lagerfeld’s epic tenure in the late ’70s and ’80s.

Now she’s starting to introduce more of herself, for spring tapping into skills she gained early in her career working for the likes of Alberta Ferretti.

“I’m a 3D flou designer from the very, very beginning,” she related during a preview. “Draping is almost easier for me than sketching.”

Cue the dens

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