No fences, no pylons, no concrete. That’s what allows the “Great Migration”, when more than a million wildebeest, zebra and gazelles cross the plains of the Serengeti in northern Tanzania, up to the Maasai Mara in Kenya in what is the biggest movement of mammals on Earth.

The untamed wildness of this East African nation came into focus at the Lemala Nanyukie Lodge . Walking between your tent and the main lodge, dodging rocky kopjes under ancient acacia trees, a Maasai guide accompanies you – with an impressive spear – at all times. I thought it was overprotective until I spent my first night listening to the sounds of harrumphing, crunching and growling outside, conscious that just a few millimetres of canvas lay between me and the natural world. The next morning, I emerged into the d

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