When did you last go to a Pizza Hut? It’s one of those curious groups of fast food establishments – ‘restaurant’ seems rather too grandiose a term – that fell through the reputational cracks several years, perhaps even decades, ago, and has yet to expire. It was too expensive and fancy for those who wanted a Dominos or Papa Johns, not middle-class enough for the Pizza Express habitués and, of course, its pizzas – large, American-inspired creations that were served without particular flair or engagement – could not even begin to compete with the new vogue for Neapolitan thick-crusted delights that were ushered in by the arrival of Franco Manca in Brixton nearly two decades ago now.

Pizza Hut was never very good, and the time for indulging false affection for it is at an end

It’s not, ther

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