Eating a fried fish sandwich is generally about as exciting as getting a physical. Flavorless McDonald’s Filet-O-Fish and other alarmingly angular fried shapes come to mind. Even at restaurants that aren’t a drive-thru or a cafeteria, fish sandwiches often feel like an afterthought with little fanfare and pizzazz. But on the outer reaches of Hayden Island, one of Portland’s newest eateries is trying to swim against the tide of blandness by making its fish sandwich the star of its show.

Opened in August by the team behind Central Oregon’s Suttle Lodge & Boathouse, Pal’s bills itself as a “fish shack-meets-snack bar” with a scruffy yet airy nautical theme inspired by the kind of no-frills seafood joints you find around New England. An expansive patio and porch seating overlook a quiet inlet

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