If you’re looking for sandy white beaches and turquoise waters, Grande Riviere in Trinidad isn’t the place. Its beauty is wilder: rainforest pressing up against the shore, a river spilling into the sea, and one of the largest leatherback sea turtle populations on Earth. Visitors come here not for a manicured Caribbean picture postcard, but to witness an extraordinary conservation story – one in which a community once known for hunting turtles now protects them.

A miracle by moonlight

Baby turtles make their first journey to the sea after dark (Image credit: Asa Wright Nature Centre)

Base yourself at Mt. Plaisir Estate Hotel, a simple but elegant lodge with ocean-facing rooms that place you steps from the nesting grounds. Days here are unhurried: lazy swims in the warm plunge pool, au

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