Makana Eyre: They May Call It Poke, But It Doesn't Come Close To Ours

A traditional Hawaiian dish has been appropriated around the world, but in name only.

When I think of the strangest places I’ve seen poke around the world, a few memories come to mind. There was the pre-packaged teriyaki, rice and red bell pepper “poke bowl” I found in a Paris grocery store. Another was the “Lunch Hawajski,” a concoction of cubed cheese, diced pineapple and chopped chicken I sighted at a Warsaw mini-mart.

These days, no matter where you go, you’re bound to encounter an abundance of this beloved Hawaiian dish. European cities, big and small, are packed with places offering it. Within a mile of my Parisian apartment there are at least 10 restaurants selling “poké.”

Farther afield, poke pops up in Cairo, Cape Town, Dubai, even Istanbul. And if Google Maps is to be believed