Writing this column on a (now) twice-weekly basis has taken its toll on my liver, sure. It's also broadened my horizons. A bit of taste bud cartography has mapped new lands across my drinking landscape. Importantly, it's unearthed an entire continent of good tequila to explore.
Thus, I've been able to escape the irradiated shores of Pepe Lopez island and into a spirit that no longer makes me break out in cold sweats upon smelling. Cazcanes is the latest uncharted territory to hack my way through.
Cazcanes is a newer, pricier tequila that isn't explicitly aimed at a bourbon-style market of new, upscale bottles at higher costs... but it certainly seems like that's the model the Los Angeles-based company has followed. Founded by winemaker brothers and recently adopted by influencers to help grow the brand, it's an effort to create a premium spirit without a premium history or backstory.
That brings concerns and challenges. But those don't matter if the tequila itself isn't any good. Let's see what we've got.
No. 9 Blanco: B+
This Jalisco-originated tequila clocks in closer to cask strength than most. At a full 100 proof, it packs about 25 percent more of a wallop than similar blancos. But the smell coming off a rocks pour doesn't do much to suggest that. It's clean, roasted agave and a little bit of salt.
That salt opens things up on your first sip before a gentle sweetness clocks in. The agave makes itself known without being overpowering, instead braiding into the balance that leaves just a bit of sugar on your lips after each sip. Despite clocking in at 50 percent alcohol by volume (ABV), there's little here to tell you you're dealing with a heavier alcohol payload.
There's an interesting dip toward the end of each sip. Right where it feels like the agave is going to come on strong and hit you with some of those warm, organic notes it drops out a little bit. You get a softer finish that doesn't quite come off as hollow, but is a little less than you'd expect. While I'd hoped for a little bit of cinnamon, allspice or wintergreen, you instead get a dry, sweet ending that leans on the quality agave within.
At the same time, it's still remarkably smooth. You get notes of black pepper and a little citrus on top of the flavors I already mentioned. It tastes clean, well made and the kind of spirit you can sip throughout the night with minimal worries about an excruciating hangover. While I'd like a little more flavor, this is a spirit that both hides its alcohol well while using it to heighten some of the agave within.
Nuestra Raices Still Strength: A-
Interestingly, the still strength tequila here is a little less potent than the No. 9. But this came in a fortress of corrugated cardboard I'd never seen before. Did I think the drink itself was encased in paper rather than a glass bottle? Listen, don't worry about it.
It pours crystal clear. It smells almost identical to the No. 9, though with just a little bit more fruit -- some honeydew melon, maybe? -- to it. There's an extra layer to the first sip here. The agave and salt are there, but you get a little more floral fruit influence that leaves you with fresh, spicy flavors that feel like a mix between the pepper of the No. 9, mint and cinnamon.
There's also just a little bit of oak and smoke in here. It's nothing you'd mistake for a Scotch, but gives you just a little more oomph on that post-sip exhale. That's the extent of the heat. It's another remarkably smooth spirit.
Those are the organic, herbal notes I was missing in the blanco. They shine here, leaving you with a really nice sipper that stands up on its own and finishes dryly enough to keep you coming back.
Would I drink it instead of a Hamm's?
This a pass/fail mechanism where I compare whatever I’m drinking to my baseline cheap beer. That’s the standby from the land of sky-blue waters, Hamm’s. So the question to answer is: on a typical day, would I drink Cazcanes' tequilas over a cold can of Hamm’s?
Yes. These are vivid, complex sippers that reward you for spending a little extra time with them. I'm sure they're great in a cocktail as well.
There's a caveat here; the No. 9 retails for around $75 per bottle. The Nuestra Raices Still Strength is about $100. You won't feel ripped off by the cost, but you can find similarly solid tequilas out there at a significantly lower price. Ultimately, whether that's worth it or whether you'd be better off with, say, a bottle of Lalo blanco is going to come down to your personal preference.
This is part of FTW’s Beverage of the Week series. Here, we mostly chronicle and review beers, but happily expand that scope to any beverage that pairs well with sports. Yes, even cookie dough whiskey.
This article originally appeared on For The Win: Tequila review: Cazcanes is priced and tastes like a premium spirit
Reporting by Christian D'Andrea, For The Win / For The Win
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