Rotisserie chicken is the latchkey kid of wholesome meals. It’s the stand-in for home cooking, the weeknight standby for harried parents, the standing order for people who just want to have something at hand in the fridge for a day or two. Even the ones sweating it out under plastic shells at groceries are pretty appealing.

So what happens when a fine dining chef trains a whole kitchen to the task of making it better?

The answer is Here Today Rotisserie . It’s from Mike Stoltzfus, the chef behind the contemporary bistro Coquette , consistently one of the city’s most inventive upscale restaurants.

Here Today opened early this year in the Lower Garden District location where the chef has tried out a few different concepts. Most recently it was Wild South , which in its too-short run

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