It’s still apple season, and surely you’re looking for some fresh ideas for your holiday table. Something using familiar ingredients in a way that hasn’t quite yet made itself clear, something to send your guests home with a feeling of having discovered something new, something intangible, something that still lingers on the tongue, leaving them slightly wistful for when they might taste it the next time.

When I cook, I like to invite in the variables. These can be manyfold. First and foremost is what is on hand. Some days, if I have just been shopping (not a frequent occurrence, as town is nowhere close by), I bask in riches. Some days my pantry is slim. Some days I have only a handful of ingredients to inspire invention. These are the days when creativity must leap forth.

Another varia

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