Starbucks opened its first store in China in 1999, when drinking coffee in a Western-style café was still a novel idea to many locals. But in the years since, homegrown coffee and bubble tea brands like Luckin Coffee, Heytea, Chagee, and Mixue have gradually chipped away at Starbucks’ share of the Chinese market. Now, they are crossing the Pacific, hoping to compete with the Seattle-based coffee giant and other American beverage chains on their home turf.
We wanted to experience—and taste—what these Chinese brands are offering American consumers. Over the past week, we visited two Luckin coffee shops and one HeyTea store in New York City, as well as one Chagee location in Los Angeles. What we found was a new and different beverage culture taking shape, built around speed, smartphone ap

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