how we eat

You can make one large panettone loaf with this recipe, or several small ones.

’Tis the season for towering displays of Italian panettone, those buttery fruited yeast breads that, in their irresistible hatbox-like packages, can set you back $50 or more.

Unlike dense fruitcakes, panettone are light and airy, rich and brioche-like, baked in paper moulds that allow them to rise high and then cool upside-down in order to maintain their height as they set. You can buy panettone moulds to make your own at home, and there are plenty of online instructions to make them out of parchment, but the loaf itself can be tricky – many bakers struggle to get that lift in a dough weighed down with butter, sugar, eggs and fruit.

Smaller loaves tend to rise higher, and rich breads such as panet

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