Seventy-two hours, no phone, and no solid roof above your head. That’s how long it takes before the soul-soothing effects of being out in nature kick in. “After a day, people don’t really relax yet,” said Anika Krogh, the Greenlandic founder of Nomad Greenland , as she poured coffee from a thermos. “After two, maybe a little bit. But on day three, something magical happens. People start to really be here. Studies have shown that stress hormones in your body will decrease by up to forty percent.”

Krogh and I had spent the morning zooming across a fjord in a rubber dinghy, and had stopped for a picnic on the grassy shore of Tartunaq Bay near the small fishing village of Saqqaq on Greenland’s west coast. A few ice floes drifted across the placid water out front; behind us, dark basalt

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