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A big statue of a tiger sits in front of the train station of Norway’s capital, Oslo. A local once explained that Oslo is nicknamed “Tiger City” because, in the 19th century, when country boys would visit this wild and crazy “New York City of Norway,” it would “make a mark on their soul.”

I find Oslo more of a kitten than a tiger. Its mix of grand Neoclassical facades, boxy ’60s-style modernism, pastoral parks, and homogenous culture have always felt a bit tame for my taste. But dig deeper, and you’ll find more texture here – from wild new buildings on its people-friendly harborfront to troubled artists.

The city’s grand boulevard, Karl Johans gate, cuts from the train station through the center of town to the Royal Palace. It’s lined with re

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