There is one dish by which any Tex-Mex restaurant should be judged: the cheese enchilada. The best examples are obscured by a drape of chili con carne gravy, capped with more melted yellow cheese, and finished with a sprinkling of raw, cubed white onions; they release a puff of cumin with each forkful. The enchilada should taste like honesty and hard work and immediately make you want another.

Nada Mucho Tex Mex Heaven , in Wimberley, serves a lighter version of this enchilada—with roja sauce instead of the chili con carne—both on its own and as part of a combination platter, which, of course, includes a crispy beef taco. Co-owner and partner-operator Travis Norman understands the enchilada’s standing in the canon—as well as the combo platter. “I test every place on just the Tex-Mex numb

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