Once a hardcore indie affair, NYC’s Gotham Awards have become the unofficial first stop on the road to the Oscars, bringing out stars like Rihanna, Jennifer Lawrence and Julia Roberts on Monday night.

Adam Sandler and Emily Mortimer — who presented a director tribute to Noah Baumbach for his new film, “Jay Kelly” — poked fun at the 35-year-old event recognizing some bigger-budget titles .

“I remember when the Gotham Awards were for low-budget movies! For ‘The Squid and the Whale,’ they paid Jeff Daniels in potato skins!” Sandler said, adding another recent development at the event, “better f—ing desserts.”

Baumbach’s new Netflix film stars Sandler and Mortimer, plus George Clooney, Laura Dern, Billy Crudup, Patrick Wilson and Riley Keough.

Baumbach has come a long way , too.

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