Santa María Golf Club is a Nicklaus Design in Panama City, Panama.
Casa Catedral in downtown Panama City, Panama.
Casco Viejo is the old (and wonderfully refurbished) region of Panama City.

Panama is like Florida on steroids.

Hotter. Wetter. Greener. And remarkable in its charm and history.

Panama City feels akin to Miami, so cosmopolitan and vertical. As soon as the metro ends, however, it’s a largely uninhabited land, as nearly half of the country’s population sits inside its glitzy capital.

For those who have never made the trek to the isthmus that joins North and South America, this country is a surprise and a treat with the international airport giving the impression that you’re in New York City or L.A., not Central America.

Prices reflect that, however, as a coffee at the airport will run about as much as it might at JFK or LAX. Of course, the country is known as the home of the Panama Canal, the 51-mile waterway that connects the Atlantic and Pacific oceans. When it opened in 1914, the canal changed the course of international shipping and remains as relevant today, more than a century later.

Golfweek recently spent a few days in the warmth of the city, played a couple rounds of golf and sampled what life is like in this tropical paradise.

Where we stayed: The Santa Maria

The Santa Maria, a Luxury Collection Hotel & Golf Resort, isn’t massive, but the attention to detail is evident from the moment you walk in. The resort is equidistant from Tocumen International Airport and the downtown area, making it as convenient as it is plush. While the jungles throughout Panama are known for being untamed, the resort offers sophistication and elegance with numerous high-end dining options on the property, including the exquisite Grill House FSH & STK.

The nearly 200 rooms, of which all have golf course views, are lavish without being excessive, and the reasonable size of the property means a short walk to any of the amenities on-site, including the outdoor pool and Aqva Pool Bar, which makes the often oppressive heat seem bearable. Let’s put it this way, it’s easy to get anywhere from the Santa Maria, but why would you want to leave?

Where we played: Santa Maria Golf and Country Club

In sticking with the “Florida on steroids” mantra, Santa Maria’s Jack Nicklaus design has a distinct Palm Beach/Jupiter feel, from the liberal use of water to the wide bailouts and massive green complexes. This course is incredibly fun for resort guests like me, who only had time to sneak in 36 over a short stay, or for members of the club who get to play the course on a consistent basis.

There are plenty of ways to get yourself into trouble at Santa Maria, but the course is fair and for every difficult hole there seems to be one that balances it out.

To put this in perspective, I played with Miguel Ordonez, the club’s membership director, who was among the top 300 amateurs in the world in 2024 and would go on to finish 15th in the Latin America Amateur Championship just weeks after our round. Ordonez attacked a few pins I had no business looking at, yet we had a thoroughly enjoyable round together as there was sufficient room for me to keep the ball away from the vast water hazards and still make a respectable score.

This course was clearly built as the heart of the Santa Maria community, as it’s lined by homes, then mid-level condo buildings with high-rises in the distance. As resort organizers explained to me, this maximizes course views. This is, however, a resort course that doubles as a residential course, so walking isn’t an option. It was built in 2012 and feels as if it’s in its prime, with a 2022 bunker renovation project adding the final touches.

After the first hole, the course veers across the Pan American Highway to an area that is being cleared for even more development, meaning the few secluded areas are likely to be impacted at some point, but the homes aren’t too intrusive. The 18-hole course plays to 7,153 yards from the tips and offers four tee locations to make the experience manageable for players of all abilities.

Where we ate: Casa Catedral

Part bistro, part museum, there aren’t many culinary experiences that will stand out in your memory as much as Casa Catedral.

The building that houses the restaurant was carved from another business, and a number of well-placed vintage automobiles make this a sensory experience on every level.

Jukeboxes, typewriters, a classic phone booth and a hanging bicycle built for two make the decor in this establishment some of the most eclectic you’ll find. And the food is divine. We enjoyed ceviche and wine that perfectly accompanied the live music duo on hand before main courses such as fresh shrimp sautéed with onion, garlic and piquillo paprika that put the entire table in a warm haze.

Site you can't miss: Casco Viejo (Old Town)

Yes, you should visit the Panama Canal. But sticking closer, ask locals about Casco Antiguo – also known as Casco Viejo or San Felipe, the historic district of Panama City — and you’re bound to get an interesting reaction. It wasn’t too long ago that the area was a dangerous place that tourists were often told to avoid at all costs.

Those days are well in the rearview mirror now as the classic neighborhood, which feels like the French Quarter in New Orleans — but more robust and safer — is the heart of the country’s resurgence in many ways.

Boutique hotels, fine dining establishments (such as the aforementioned Casa Catedral) and long, narrow streets bustling with activity and vendors offer more than a tourist can take in on one afternoon. Completed and settled in 1673, the old neighborhood was built after the near-total destruction of the original Panama City in 1671, when it was attacked by pirates.

It was designated a World Heritage Site in 1997 and now stands as a perfect mix of Central American charm, European architecture and American ingenuity.

Fun fact: Mother's Day means something

Unlike in the United States, where Mother’s Day falls each year on a Sunday, the holiday has a fixed date of Dec. 8 in Panama. But more importantly, this isn’t just a passing Hallmark holiday: It’s a national day off. Banks are closed. Streets are empty. Even some restaurants observed the day off. Don’t think you’re sliding by without acknowledging Mom on her big day in Panama.

Since 1930, the day has been a national recognition of the women who make this small country so great.

Overall impression: Bring the golf clubs

Wondering if it’s worth it to bring along the clubs for a quick shot to Panama City? It is.

Santa Maria (which we played twice) was a great test, yet perfect for those just looking to soak in some outdoor fun during a quick business meeting or vacation. Brilliant views, solid golf architecture and incredible amenities make this a long weekend you’ll wish was a full week or more.

(Editor's note: This article originally ran in Golfweek's print edition in 2024.)

This article originally appeared on Golfweek: 48 hours and a golf bag in Panama City, Panama (like Miami, but more)

Reporting by Tim Schmitt, Golfweek / Golfweek

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