If you devote time to eating at restaurants in Los Angeles, you will eventually hear about The Steak.

Steaks appear on menus all over Los Angeles, of course, but the one served at Dunsmoor, an American restaurant in the Glassell Park area, occupies a distinctive place in the city’s culinary conversation. It is not quite right to say that people “revere” the Dunsmoor steak. That might suggest a sort of cheffy sorcery that transforms a slab of beef into a thing of wonder, an ode to the idea of steak, and that’s not what’s happening with the Dunsmoor steak. People who eat at Dunsmoor find the steak satisfying because it doesn’t pretend to be anything other than what it is: a slab of beef, carefully cooked. It is a steak, as chef Brian Dunsmoor likes to explain, that can reconnect you wit

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