Sandwich shop Sparta Sips & Subs is set to open Thursday at 7 Mill St. in Freeport.

The restaurant, named for owner and Freeport’s Spartan Sea Farms kelp and oyster farmer Ken Sparta, will serve sandwiches like Maine Italians, New Orleans muffulettas and smoked pollock sandwiches and — come fall — a prized vegetarian chili. But the sandwich Sparta sounds most excited about is the kelp-based Philly cheesesteak. “It’s outstanding,” said Sparta, a one-time vegetarian. “Is it a Philly cheesesteak? No. But does it remind you of a Philly cheesesteak? Absolutely.” (The restaurant’s general manager, perhaps not incidentally, grew up in Cherry Hill, a New Jersey suburb just across the Delaware River from Philadelphia.)

For the next couple of weeks, Sparta Sips & Subs will be open only from Th

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