The buzziest womenswear debut on Tokyo Fashion Week’s slimmed down schedule this season is Yuka Kimura, a 27-year-old Yohji Yamamoto alum who started her own brand, Mukcyen (pronounced muh-shan), in 2023. Kimura is the winner of the JFW Next Brand Award 2026, and thus kicked off a week of shows with her first outing for the brand.

The show unfolded in a Dune -like palette of skintight dresses, while the thick leather harnesses, corset jerkins, and chainmail detailing lent a medieval-vampire dark fantasy vibe. Layered cupro dresses, tops, and leggings clung and hung from the body like bandages. Appropriately these looks were part of what the designer is calling the “second skin series,” and had been infused with oil, which Kimura said increases the skin’s moisture content. Clothing meets

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