If you want a broad yet accurate window into what a lot of Japanese menswear looks like right now, this debut show from Ancellm provides it. The brand’s first runway show in Tokyo marks five years since the brand’s inception; it unfolded in front of an audience just shy of 1,000 people, in the vast and glassy Triangle Plaza of the Shinjuku Sumitomo Building.

Based in founder Kazuya Yamachika’s hometown of Okayama—an area near Hiroshima known for its wealth of factories and manufacturers—the brand produces much of its clothing locally. Known for crafty and innovative distressing techniques, Ancellm bleaches, sands, and smatters with paint everything from denim jeans to leather jackets, giving its collections a worn-in feel that is uniformly soft to the touch.

Oversized linen tailoring wit

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