“I think it’s sauna and equality,” says Alex Lembke, when I ask his thoughts on happiness. The first part of this answer I could perhaps have predicted, given he’s the master of Finland’s oldest, still-functioning public sauna – but there’s more to it than loyalty to a vocation. “ I think the Finnish people see very little division between themselves,” he continues. “They see themselves as more equal; in public saunas we see judges, MPs and surgeons sitting next to labourers, shopkeepers and the unemployed – often naked. It is very equalising when you remove your daily costume.”

I’ve come to Finland not just to sweat it out, but to understand how it’s been named the happiest country in the world for eight years running, according to the World Happiness Report .

I’m making use of an I

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