At dawn, bleary-eyed workers pour into a traditional teahouse in Kosovo nestled under the minarets of the local mosque, seeking a rich amber brew that has outlived empires and continues to draw devotees.

But Kosovo’s prized teahouses, or “cajtores”, face growing competition from Western-style cafes and a burgeoning coffee scene vying to be among the finest in the world.

In the northeastern city of Vushtrri, the Balkan “capital of tea”, locals love the traditional version of the drink, brewed slowly in two stacked kettles and sipped from tulip-shaped glasses.

“We open the door just after 4:00 am so we are ready for the workers who stop by before the morning shift,” said Nebih Gerxhaliu, the proprietor of the Fisi teahouse.

Dubbed “Russian tea” by locals, the beverage is more widely know

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