STATEN ISLAND, N.Y. — After a summer siesta, lunch is back at The Staaten—and with it, a sense of old-school Staten Island hospitality that makes the venue stand on its own.

The weekday lunch format, available Wednesday through Friday from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., is arguably one of the best values on the Island. For about $23, guests enjoy a full meal that starts with a basket of soft rolls and includes a choice of soup or salad, a hearty entrée, dessert, and coffee or tea.

Each day features five or six rotating specials, with a dedicated dish anchoring the menu: roast loin of pork with sauerkraut and roasted potatoes on Wednesdays, salmon on Thursdays, and a fish entrée—like filet oreganata—on Fridays.

There’s also a daily cocktail special—something seemingly simple, like a Cape Cod o

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