So the chips began to fall on Tuesday and Wednesday in Milan as the first collections in a remarkable season of debuts appeared. In a well-orchestrated marketing attack, Gucci had already released images of Demna’s “La Famiglia” collection ahead of the premiere of “ The Tiger,” a short film by Spike Jonze and Halina Reijn, where the clothes were part of the storyline. A number of its stars, notably Demi Moore, Eliot Page and Edward Norton, also attended the screening in Milan—with red carpet fanfare.

The next morning, in Jil Sander’s minimalist showroom—last used for a show in 2017—the new creative director, Simone Belotti, presented his vision for the brand. He succeeds Lucie and Luke Meier, who took Jil in some strange directions. Belotti erased that impression, and brought his design

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