For reasons I can’t fathom, I often seek familiar Italian-style dishes — especially the tomato sauce kind — in early autumn. Just for the sake of congruence, I look to Italian wines for accompaniment:

Terre del Casone Toscana Rosso Governo all’uso Toscano 2023 (Tuscany, Italy). This 80/10/10 blend of sangiovese, cab sauv and cilegiolo is made by the governo method, which is the use of partially dried grapes in a second fermentation. Here it results results in a very dark crimson color and softer texture, as well as deeper fruitiness of flavor (from cherries to berries). This version is full medium in body, with no harsh tannins and satisfying length. Beef/pork braciole with tomato/red wine sauce would be appropriate, but braised flank steak would do as well. (Trader Joe’s, $7.99)

Colle

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