Vincent Garnier Pressiat sought to signal his brand’s viability by expanding his neo-gothic, neo-romantic vocabulary, opting to tease drama out through plays on proportions, layering and details.

“I wanted to show that we can do commercial,” he said after a show rife with the components for a dandy’s wardrobe, which he executed both in sheer materials such as chiffon and revisited with fabrics better suited for daytime hours.

Often it was a case of swapping ripped tights for a more conventional bottom half and you had an outfit that could believably be worn to head into work.

Elsewhere, an oversize leather waistcoat worn as a minidress was shown later in a more conservative proportion, thrown over a tank top and skirt.

Among other standouts were godet skirts and roomy blouses, as well

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