Anderson’s Dior womenswear debut is a montage of ideas, but not a 'New Look'

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A model wears a creation as part of the Dior Spring/Summer 2026 collection presented in Paris, Wednesday, Oct. 1, 2025. (AP Photo/Aurelien Morissard)

PARIS – No other show so far at Paris Fashion Week has drawn such a feverish crush of celebrities, designers and press.

All eyes were on Jonathan Anderson — the Northern Irish designer who has already transformed Loewe into a global powerhouse of wit and craft — as he unveiled his first Dior womenswear collection on Wednesday.

The weight of history was everywhere. Dior was the fashion house that recrowned Paris as the world’s capital of fashion in 1947, when Christian Dior unveiled the “New Look.” That Bar jacket and wasp-waisted silhouette made headlines across a world stil