In Ukraine, Oct. 1 is Defenders Day, a public holiday honoring veterans and fallen soldiers since 2015. By staging her Paris presentation that day, Lilia Litkovska once again used her voice to speak out about the ongoing war in her homeland.

Litkovska’s backdrop was an installation made from camouflage netting, dyed in a vivid pink for the occasion to highlight soldiers’ bravery and explore the balance between visibility and invisibility, courage and vulnerability.

The collection also homed in on the juxtaposition between sharp masculinity and feminine softness with which Litkovska likes to play, which was even more apparent this season. Inspired by an exhibition of art brut and what she described as its “raw sincerity,” she incorporated floral embroideries into delicate plastron dresses

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