The barrage of fried foods at the State Fair of Texas is always a bit much. It’s difficult to keep up with what’s new, what’s worth the time spent in line, and what’s worth the dollar coupons. Vendors come up with all sorts of wacky creations to impress fairgoers as well as the judges of the Big Tex Choice Awards—a big-deal contest for fair foods. Abel Gonzalez , for instance, dazzles with his deep-fried everything year after year, and has rightfully earned the title of “Fried Jesus.” But even his dishes can fall short of enticing.

This year, it’s the deep-fried deli tacos from Smokey John’s that enchanted me and my taste buds. It was a finalist in the Best Taste: Savory category in the Big Tex competition. And it’s the best dish I’ve ever had at the state fair.

Every component compl

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