Lucky Danger

Crab Lo Mein

location_on 709 D St., NW

language Website

Lucky Danger—which began as a pandemic pop-up and has evolved into a sleek Penn Quarter dining room/mahjong parlor—aims to make tweaked but still recognizable versions of Chinese/American classics. But the heaping pile of lo mein here is far more luxe than anything you’ll find in a takeout box. For starters, it’s tossed with hunks of buttered Maryland blue crab. The best part of the dish, though, is the umami bomb of a sauce, the result of a happy accident when a cook spilled creamy, caramelized whey into dashi. Its richness is tempered by fragrant kaffir lime, plus a scattering of finely diced chilies and cilantro.

The Occidental

Buttermilk Biscuits

location_on 1475 Pennsylvania Ave., NW

language Website

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