I fell in love with Estonia through its weird and wonderful sauna traditions

If you asked me if I’d like to go back to any place in the world right now, without hesitation I’d say Mooska Farm in southern Estonia .

I’d take you by the hand into its dark, smoky, timber sauna where you’d meet Eda Veeroja, naked as the day she was born.

She’d guide you to a hand-crafted log bench laid with broad green leaves freshly plucked from the trees outside. She’d be singing centuries-old Estonian folk songs, murmuring magical-sounding incantations and whisking you with dried birch leaves into a higher state of sweaty consciousness.

Twenty minutes later we’d duck under the crooked lintel of the doorway and emerge blinking into the sunshine, brushing away mosquitos to walk naked into the cold lake in front of us.

We’d then poke our heads into another sauna and find her husba