H&M’s tradition of collaborating with high fashion designers dates back more than two decades, but Glenn Martens’s entry into that history is a little different. In September 2024, after 11 years at the helm, Glenn Martens stepped down from his role as creative director of Y/Project. After failing to find a buyer, the label shuttered just months later. Now, Martens’s offerings for H&M act as one final bow for the label that launched his career.

“I was like, ‘Maybe we should give a little swan song to Y/Project and give it an extra moment of celebration,’” Martens said in a press conference on October 7. “Instead of just putting it in the cupboard and having it die in the darkness.”

But when H&M’s creative advisor and head of womenswear, Ann-Sofie Johansson, initially reached out to Marte

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