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Travelling from Delhi to Patna by road, I reached Buxar at dawn and stopped at a roadside ‘dhaba’ for tea. The Patna-Buxar highway was buzzing with unusually heavy traffic—partly due to Diwali and Chhath Puja, occasions when every Bihari reconnects with their roots. Since confirmed train tickets are nearly impossible without months of planning and airfares cost more than international flights, the road has become the preferred route. The Agra-Lucknow and Purvanchal expressways have made travel smoother. Yet, much of the congestion also stems from election traffic, with party workers and leaders moving in cavalcades. The number of SUVs itself speaks volumes about a candidate’s strength.

The area where I stopped falls under the Buxar assembly constituency, represent

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