When chef John Williams first tasted sauce périgourdine at nineteen, he was captivated by the combination of earthy truffle, sweet Madeira and Port, and savory veal stock. “That experience has stayed with me nearly 50 years later,” he explains. “It was a defining moment of my life and relationship to food.”

At The Ritz in London, where he is executive chef, Williams makes a version of this, which “brings depth, luxury, and a signature character to the dish,” he says. 2025 was a momentous year for the restaurant—as it finally gained the two Michelin stars many felt warranted for a decade, and was awarded number one spot in The National Restaurant Awards —an indicator of the current appetite for classical French cuisine in the city.

“Sauces are central to this,” he says. “In French coo

See Full Page