Colleen Allen, a Brooklyn-based designer, showed her first eponymous collection in February of 2024 — and mesmerized much of the New York fashion industry with her lacy separates and gowns saturated in rich reds, purples and oranges, tones that make you want to bite into a ripe piece of fruit and feel the earth under your feet.

The designer, whose background was originally in menswear, graduated from Central Saint Martins and then interned under Raf Simons at Calvin Klein. Afterward, she spent three years cutting her teeth at The Row before going out on her own. Allen’s silhouettes are often nipped and tailored, mildly witchy and evocative of silhouettes prominent in the Victorian era, but minus all the pinching and prodding we associate that time with. Looking at her clothing is like tak

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