As frosts settle into our mountains, and days disappear long before we’re ready to take to our covers, recipes that cook long and slow in the oven are welcome — not only for their nourishment, but for the extra heat that lingers in the kitchen when the oven has been working.

If you are lucky enough to have preserved your mother’s or your grandmother’s wood cookstove, this is the best source for that extra warmth. Or if you happen to have a pizza oven out back, and have enough wood to fire it up, you can give it dual duty.

The dish I share with you today is one that originated in Alsace, that region in the northeast of France, bordering both Germany and Switzerland, which has alternated between French and German control for centuries, and reflects both of the cultures. Flanked inland by t

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